Gender Equality in Business is Necessary Not Only for the Well-Being of Women, But Also for Society

Interview: Dilek Hayırlı

The textile industry, which has been shaped by women’s labour for centuries, is now becoming a sector where not only production but also management is in the hands of women. We spoke to Ayşegül Kaya, board member of the Turkish Clothing Manufacturers’ Association (TGSD) and Textile Innovation and Sustainability Manager at TYH, about the rise of women in the sector, the challenges they face and the steps that need to be taken in the fight for equality.

There are some sectors that are almost defined by women’s labour. Textiles are one of them. The skilful cutting of scissors, the delicate weaving of fabric, the meticulous processing of embroidery… Women’s work, care and productivity are hidden in every stitch of this sector. But this work should not be limited to production. Women should also have a strong presence in management, decision-making and at the tables that shape the future of the sector.

8 March International Women’s Day was born as a symbol of this struggle. In 1857, women weavers in New York raised their voices against difficult working conditions and low wages, not only to demand their own rights but also to make the voices of all working women heard. The spark that ignited that day has grown over the years into a movement that has led to a stronger defence of women’s work and rights. Today, the struggle for equal opportunities and fair representation for women continues, especially in labour-intensive sectors.

Coming back to the textile sector, throughout history women have been on the stage not only as workers but also as pioneers of change and progress. Unfortunately, however, the representation of women in decision-making mechanisms in the textile sector, as in many other sectors, is still not at the desired level.

In the March issue of Tekstil Teknoloji, on the occasion of International Women’s Day on 8 March, we wanted to bring the work, dedication and struggle of women into our pages. To mark the occasion, we interviewed Ayşegül Kaya, the youngest member of the board of the Turkish Clothing Manufacturers’ Association (TGSD) and Innovation and Sustainability Manager at TYH Tekstil.

What steps should we take to see more women in leadership positions, to break glass ceilings and to ensure equal opportunities? What role should companies, NGOs and female employees play in this fight? In this interview, we seek answers to these questions, describe the rise of women in the sector, the challenges they face and the steps that need to be taken in the fight for equality, and offer a powerful perspective on the importance of women’s power in the business world.

As Ayşegül Kaya pointed out during the interview, the dream of a sector where women have a say not only in production but also in management is not far away. Happy Labouring Women’s Day with the hope that these days will come sooner!

First of all, can we get to know you a little? What influence did the training you received have on your decision to enter the textile industry?

I completed my secondary and high school education at TED (Turkish Education Association) Konya College as a Full Education Scholar (TED TEB). I completed my undergraduate education at METU Industrial Design Department in 2016 and my Master’s degree in 2023. Then I worked as an Industrial Product Designer at CASA Furniture for about 1.5 years.

In 2017, I participated as a designer in a project for a lift mechanism developed for people with disabilities. The results of the patent application were positive, and the project was awarded the good design at the Good Design Award (2017) held in Japan. The same project also received a good design award at Design Turkey in 2016 and 2017.

In 2018, I started working as a project development specialist at TYH Tekstil Istanbul R&D Centre, followed by project management.
I received the R&D and Design Centre Expertise Certificate. I took part in 12 academic studies such as papers, articles and publications within the scope of R&D projects. I received the Sustainability Management Certificate and started to develop myself in the field of sustainability since 2021. I am currently working as Innovation and Sustainability Manager. I was elected to the TGSD Board of Directors at the general assembly held in January. I am also the leader of the TGSD Sustainability Working Group.

“We Have 75% Female Team Members at TYH Textile”

How did you decide to work in the textile industry? Did this sector have a special meaning for you or did you choose this path as part of your career?

When I was studying, I had no idea that I would work in the textile sector. After gaining different experiences, I started to work in our family company with the guidance of the conditions. I am currently the third generation to work in our family business.

When you first stepped into the sector, what were the difficulties you faced as a woman? How did you cope with the challenges of being in a male-dominated sector? What have been the biggest advantages of working as a woman manager in the textile industry?

If we look at the owners of the companies, we can say that our sector is generally male-dominated. However, the ready-to-wear sector is actually a female-dominated sector. For example, at TYH Tekstil we have 75% female teammates and 54% female managers at the executive level. We are proud of this percentage at management level. Therefore, I have not experienced any difficulties in this sector just because I am a woman. To build healthy relationships in business, you need to be a good listener. I have tried to be a good listener in the environments I have been in, and this makes it easier for me to deal with difficulties. On the other hand, as I work on R&D, innovation and sustainability issues, I see more clearly the advantages of being a female manager.

Unfortunately, there are still not enough women managers in the textile industry. What needs to change in the sector to get more women into management positions and what steps should be taken to achieve this?

There are many areas and subjects that can be improved and developed. I can even say that this is limitless. Training and development programmes are very important for preparing women for management positions. In parallel, mentoring and coaching can also support young female employees to advance in their careers. At the point where digitalisation and today’s conditions have reached, we see that flexible working conditions are becoming widespread in the business world. These opportunities can also support women’s participation in business life.

“One of Our 2030 Sustainability Goals is Gender Equality”

Do you have any corporate social responsibility projects with associations or NGOs in your company or sector to promote women’s participation in the labour market?

In our company we implement many issues such as human rights, social compliance and gender equality by supporting them with policies and procedures. The ‘TYH Textile Code of Ethics’ forms the basis of our work. We expect all our employees to act in accordance with these general principles in their relationships with our customers, suppliers and other stakeholders with whom we do business. Our 2030 Sustainability Goals cover many issues for our employees. One of these is gender equality in all its aspects. We have addressed many issues relating to anti-discrimination and working conditions within the law. We ensure that our employees are involved in a working environment and human resources processes that offer equal opportunities, diversity and inclusion. As a signatory to the Women’s Empowerment Principles (WEPs) since 2016, we are committed to providing a fair, equal and human rights-respecting work environment. We support the participation of women in business life, for example, we pave the way for our teammates to play a greater role in business life by establishing crèches for children aged 0-6 in our production areas. In recent years, we have provided awareness training to our teammates on gender equality and zero tolerance of violence. We are committed to continuing these programmes.

What kind of change and transformation is taking place in the sector as women take a more active role in leadership and business? Can you share your observations?

The increased involvement of women in business life will increase the use of results-oriented approaches and practical solutions. The reason I think this way is because of a quote by Margaret Thatcher that everyone knows. Thatcher said, “If you want it said, ask a man. If you want it done, ask a woman. It is estimated that closing the gender gap in business could add $7 trillion to the global economy. I believe that women’s dedication, sensitivity, manual skills and ability to easily grasp details have positively changed business life. New job opportunities that will emerge in our digital world will allow women to take a greater place in business.

“Ready-to-Wear is One of the Sectors that Employs the Most Women in Our Country”

You are also on the board of the TGSD. Can you tell us about the strategic choices you have made or the projects you have developed as TGSD to increase the presence of women in the sector?

TGSD is the most inclusive civil society organisation in the sector. We continue this inclusivity not only by hosting different sectors, but also by supporting women to become more involved in employment and decision-making mechanisms. As part of this approach, we, as the TGSD Board, attach importance to increasing the representation of women. For the last two terms, one third of our Board has been made up of women. The ready-to-wear sector is one of the sectors that employs the most women in our country. Moreover, we are the only sector in which the number of women exceeds the number of men among all manufacturing sectors. This is why the sector has always attached great importance to the employment of women.

Have you noticed any changes in the textile sector in terms of women’s participation in the workforce in recent years? Do you think this change will accelerate in the future?

I think that the participation of women in the textile and ready-made garment sector has increased in recent years. According to TÜİK’s ‘Women in Statistics 2023’ data, the employment rate of the population aged 15 and over was reported to be 30.4% for women and 65% for men. The ready-made garment sector is one of the sectors where women’s employment is concentrated and the female employment rate is generally above 50%. However, if we look at TÜİK’s annual population growth rate data, we see that the population growth rate, which was 13.9 per thousand in 2019, will be 1.1 per thousand in 2023 and 3.4 per thousand in 2024. Our population growth rate is declining. For this reason, I believe that women’s participation in the workforce in our sector will accelerate in the near future. In short, gender equality in business is important for social development.

“I Advise Women Just Starting Out in Their Careers to Prioritise Continuous Learning and Development”

Finally, can you tell us what message you would like to give to women in our industry on International Women’s Day and what advice you would give to female employees just starting out in business?

In the read-to-wear and garment sector, women’s efforts and talents are the backbone of our industry. There is no doubt that we still have a long way to go. First of all, I would like to tell all women to trust their talents. My advice to women just starting out in their careers prioritise to continuous learning and development. It is very important that we invest in ourselves by giving importance to our professional and personal development. As long as we do this, we can contribute to our family, society and the institutions we work for. Creating an effective network will be beneficial in every aspect of business life. That’s why I recommend being open to communication. Work-private life balance is always on the agenda. It’s probably the number one issue for women in business. I advise both myself and women just starting out in their careers to maintain a work-private life balance. We are witnessing many difficulties in the world and in our country. We must keep our positive outlook despite all the difficulties. I am not saying that we should be Pollyannaist. But we must maintain our productivity against the negative situations that are happening around us. We have seen the determination of Turkish women many times in our history and we must continue to do so. After all, gender equality in business is necessary not only for the well-being of women, but also for society.